Resembling the Japanese udon noodle, banh canh, literally translated as “cake soup”, is either made with pure rice flour or rice flour mixed with tapioca, giving it a thick appearance and chewy texture. Typical topping options include pork, chicken, and seafood.

“Giant” crab banh canh in District 5

A pot of banh canh at Ba Ba comes with a ladle so customers can split the soup into smaller bowls for individual servings. Photo by VnExpress/Cao Ly.

Ba Ba (Madam Ba) eatery in Alley 84 on Nguyen Bieu Street in District 5 is known for serving their crab noodle soup banh canh in large ceramic cooking pots suitable for two to three people.

Aside from the big serving, the banh canh at Ba Ba lures patrons with its viscous orange broth enriched with crab meat, pork bones, and dried shrimp. Cashew oil and tapioca starch are added to achieve the color and viscosity.

Toppings consist of two to three slices of shrimp and fish cake, quail eggs, blood pudding, and pig skin. A portion costs VND92,000 ($4). The eatery opens from 9 a.m. until 8 p.m.

Phu Yen garlic chive banh canh in District 10

Customers can request to have less chives in their bowl. Photo by VnExpress/Cao Ly.

A specialty of central Phu Yen Province, a bowl of banh canh covered in garlic chives at 111 Cao Thang Street in District 10 might turn some away because of its strong smell. However, garlic chives are tactfully used here to dilute the fishy flavor of the soup.

In central Vietnam cuisine, the broth for soups is usually made with seafood for a sweeter taste than regular pork bone varieties. Simple yet delicious, toppings include thick cut noodles, fish cakes, a piece of mackerel accompanied by a sweet and sour sauce on the side.

A bowl costs VND40,000 ($1.7) and VND50,000 with mackerel. The eatery also serves other Phu Yen delicacies like chicken rice, basil chicken hotpot, and tuna salad. The restaurant opens from 7 a.m. until 9.30 p.m.

“Two bowl” banh canh in District 1

A portion includes a bowl containing the noodle soup and another with the meat, giving the eatery its “two bowl” nickname. Photo by VnExpress/Cao Ly.

Every noon, the eatery at 10 Pho Duc Chinh Street in District 1 teems with customers. Even though the sign only advertises squid porridge, the joint attracts customers for its delicious rendition of banh canh.

Each serving features two bowls, one containing the soup and noodles, the other, meat. A lime, pepper, and salt dip is served on the side. Here, the soup is topped with a chicken drumstick, wing, or pig’s trotters.

Recipe for making porridge is also used for the soup and sweetened with shreds of dried octopus, pork bones, and dried shrimp.

The eatery opens from 7 a.m. until 9 p.m. Aside from porridge and banh canh, it also offers Vietnamese macaroni (nui), wonton, and side dishes like century egg and boiled chicken feet.

The price for a bowl ranges from VND50,000 to VND55,000, depending on additional extras.

The 103-meter-square house in southern Ba Ria – Vung Tau Province has foam insulated tole covering its exterior drywall, creating a minimalist shape.

The white layer of tole gives the house a bright, industrial look.

The garage, living room, dining room, kitchen, toilet, and one bedroom are on the first floor. Trees are planted in many spaces, while the brown shades of the furniture create a sense of coziness in this three-generation family abode.

An atrium allows natural light to enter, which also benefits the many plants inside the house.

From a solemn worship area for adults to the child-friendly safety net above the garage, the house is meant to provide tons of comfort.

Minimalist bedroom.

The owners wanted a small garden inside the house, so architects decided to plant trees in as many corners as possible. The greenery combines with windows and an atrium, affording the home more natural features.

Photos by Quang Dam

Over the last few months, many Saigonese have seen a motorbike taxi driver carrying a baby strapped to his chest. Some photographs of the father and the baby have gone viral on social media.

Tran Nguyen Thien Nhan, all of eight months old, has become a working companion for his father, 38-year-old Nguyen Trung Hieu.

After borrowing some money from the bank to invest in a business, Hieu and his wife lost everything when the business failed. The couple rents a studio apartment and the financial burden became too much to bear, with the wife jobless and the baby needing a caretaker if they wanted to go out and work.

Hieu as a motorbike taxi driver for ride-hailing firm Grab, and his eight-month-old son on a Saigon’s street. Photo courtesy of Hieu’s passenger.

Recently, Hieu’s wife found a job and started working as a sales staff at a local supermarket. Her mother is old and not strong to take care of two grandkids, so she looks after her three-year-old older grandson. Hieu’s 70-year-old mother is still busy selling lottery tickets on the streets.

“We have no choice. So I have to take our youngest child with me. If my wife works in the morning, I take care of him at that time,” Hieu said.

The father spent almost a month to prepare for his little son’s first trip with him. He bought clothes, diapers, milk, raincoat, towels for the boy for the three hours. Rainy days are more challenging since the raincoat does not afford total protection against strong downpours.

As he takes his passengers to their destinations, Hieu keeps a watchful eye on his son. Sometimes, he takes Nhan to places with some shade to protect him from prolonged exposure to sunlight, so the baby gets some rest.

If his wife goes to work in the evening, Hieu and Nhan venture out from around 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

“It is hot these days, and sometimes he cries. I feel sad, but I have no choice. If he cries too much, I turn off the application and go home,” Hieu said.

Having a baby along makes it more difficult to work, sometimes. Many customers have refused to get on Hieu’s bike after seeing the baby.

“Since I started taking my son to work, passengers have reacted differently. Everyone is surprised, some feel sorry and show care, others get annoyed and cancel the ride,” Hieu said.

Some patrons have talked about the father-son duo on social media, and this has also attracted both positive and negative comments. Many people say Hieu is melodramatic and playing the sympathy card.

“The family is in poverty; and I am forced to take my son to work,” he said. Although a teacher told me not to care about what other people say, I spend sleepless nights thinking how to earn money and bring up my children properly.”

On July 6, the U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) and Department of Homeland Security (DHS) announced the new regulation, subjecting international students to deportation if they did not attend classes on campus as universities grappled with the question of whether or not to reopen during the pandemic. The new visa rule dumped over 1.1 million international students in the U.S. into quagmire.

Ton Hien Anh, student at Harvard University, did not worry too much since she had registered for a repatriation flight back to Vietnam in August. But witnessing her friends stretch themselves thin as travel restrictions stop many from going home, Anh knew she “must do something.”

Right after learning about the new ICE visa rule, she stayed up all night to research its effects on international students. After, she wrote to the university, asking it to safeguard student rights.

Ton Hien Anh at Harvard University. Photo by La Thanh Ha.

On behalf of international students stranded in America, she sent her letter to the university’s Board of Overseers. In the meantime, she talked with organizations and individuals, encouraging them to use the letter she prepared to show their support.

On the morning of July 7, the university held an urgent meeting. The dean responded to Anh’s email, telling her Harvard would officially sue ICE.

Different from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), one of the first institutions suing ICE, Harvard University will go 100 percent online in fall. While ICE gave universities 10 days to change their plan for the upcoming semester, no one knew how long the lawsuit would last before the judge’s final decision.

Anh, one more time, worked against the clock to suggest the university organize on-campus courses so international students could join and maintain their visa status.

The Vietnamese student studied how other universities were reacting to the new visa rules, policies of 15 institutions holding on-campus courses, and over 30 student movements calling universities to mitigate the rule’s negative effects.

“I was researching and receiving feedback from friends, alumnus, and professors who cared about this matter to complete the letter and call for more support,” Anh said.

In her open petition, she summarizes the consequences international students at Harvard would have to face if ICE won the lawsuit. Accordingly, they could be deported or have their visas revoked if they overstayed in America. Many countries have closed their borders amid the pandemic, placing many students into a dilemma. Besides, traveling across country also poses Covid-19 infection risks.

Anh poposed several feasible solutions for Harvard, affordable and easy to carry out without violating social distancing rules, such as organizing on-campus courses. She mentioned several universities in the Ivy League that will run on-campus activities in fall, such as Princeton and Yale. Other institutions like Colombia University and UC Berkeley added on-campus courses to their programs right after ICE released the new visa rules.

At the end of her open letter, she quoted university president Lawrence Bacow stating: “We will not stand by to see our international students’ dreams extinguished by a deeply misguided order. We owe it to them to stand up and to fight, and, we will.”

In the first 20 hours, the petition attracted over 1,000 signatures from Harvard professors, universities, and alumni, including more than 50 presidents and management board members of organizations within the university.

Dean Rakesh Khurana of Harvard College said he had submitted Anh’s letter to the Board of Overseers to consider plans for the fall semester, thanking the Vietnamese student for raising her voice.

On July 8, Harvard and MIT officially sued the administration, attracting dozens of universities, state authorities, and tech companies to join the fight by opposing the new visa rules, which were rescinded on July 15 after a federal court hearing.

Right after, David C. Lamberth, professor of Philosophy and Theology at Harvard, sent an email to Anh, telling her he was delighted about the government’s new decision.

“The wide range of voices from all across the country, from students, faculty, universities and industry all came together in less than a week, and the kind of self-advocacy you did contribute in no small part,” he told her.

The fight was not full of roses. Anh faced several challenges while calling for support. Many did not understand the law or the reasons why they should care about international students. Some, including professors, even told her to keep quiet.

To Hien Anh (second from left) and her family at her sister’s graduation in the U.S. Photo by La Thanh Ha.

Her mother was like a cat on hot bricks after learning her little daughter was standing up to the American school.

“She is just an international student, how can she talk with university leaders. I was worried she would be deported,” said La Thanh Ha, Anh’s mother.

But the Vietnamese student is a real fighter.

“I want to bring voices from the Harvard community to university leaders. I want to help them have a comprehensive understanding of what would happen if international students are sent home amid the pandemic,” she told her mother, who later gave her 100 percent support.

Anh is not the first in her family to go to Harvard on a full scholarship. Her elder sister, Ton Ha Anh, also attended the 384-year-old university and now works as a senior business analyst at American management consulting firm McKinsey in New York.

While Ha Anh is more sociable, Hien Anh is more introverted and has a passion for social activities to demand justice for the underprivileged. She is a member of the management board of a school organization which has been raising money for over 100 eye operations for poor children and supplying food and shelter to the homeless.

Last semester, Hien Anh was one of the top students in her class. Bonnie Talbert, a lecturer in Social Studies, impressed after reading her final paper about racism in America and the Black Lives Matter movement, sent the paper to Dean Rakesh Khurana.

Now, nearly everyone knows about the Vietnamese student who raised her voice to protect international students at Harvard.

Early morning one day in the middle of July Toan folds his blankets and steps outside to catch some sun.

After spending eight days in the emergency room with oxygen therapy, the man who feared he would die of the novel coronavirus can now enjoy the summer breeze back home in Vietnam.

“In the last seven months I have experienced many things and realized that life is strange and beautiful simultaneously,” the 42-year-old engineer says.

Born in Hanoi, he now lives in Saigon’s District 4 and works for a project funded by the Bangladesh government and the World Bank.

After the Lunar New Year in January, the chief consultant to the mechanical engineering team left for the Bangladeshi capital Dhaka, hoping to return to Vietnam on February 28. But a visa issue caused him to miss the return flight, which was then postponed to March 26.

But that did not go too well either.

In late March the first Covid-19 case was confirmed in Bangladesh, and the government decided to impose a lockdown to contain the pandemic. On March 26, the day of his flight, the country suspended flights to all countries except the U.K. and China.

Toan’s group, which had four people in the beginning, grew larger after 11 more Vietnamese from construction sites across Dhaka came. The 15, comprising three women, shared a 250-square-meter apartment.

Without enough beds in the four-bedroom apartment, some had to sleep on the floor. Stranded, with no idea when they could come return home, and anxiety due to the raging pandemic stressed some of them out, and arguments and conflicts broke out constantly.

Toan, understanding that people were worried because they did not know when they could return to Vietnam, tried to comfort his fellows but also told them to stop fretting to reassure their families. After the first week things got better as they realized they had no choice but to put up with the hardship.

Nguyen Quoc Toan works out on the roof of his house while stranded in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Photo courtesy of Nguyen Quoc Toan.

Dividing themselves into groups of three to five people to cook and clean, they bought gloves, protective clothes and face masks for those going out to shop. They went to the supermarket once every four days. When there was too much to carry, they would rent a trolley to bring the stuff home.

Toan was working and reporting to his manager, and spending time reading and working out. Every day he would exercise looking at a YouTube video and jog on the roof, and urge his housemates to join.

The rooftop quickly became their favorite place as they worked out and watched planes fly in the sky, nursing their dreams of returning home.

After more than 100 days they were told there would be a flight to Vietnam on July 2. But the good news from the Vietnamese embassy was quickly replaced by bad: Covid-19 had arrived at their apartment.

On June 24 one of the group got a fever. Within five days 14 or 15 of them had Covid-19 symptoms like fever, body ache and tiredness.

“We did not think we could be infected since we were taking serious precautions,” Toan recalls.

They bought medicines, made soup to be given as comfort food, used homemade herbal steam baths, and took care of each other.

The fever vanished after two days, giving them reason to believe it was just the flu.

At 10 p.m. on July 2 they were taken to Dhaka airport in protective clothes.

Nguyen Quoc Toan’s group prepares to leave for home from Bangladesh on July 2, 2020. Photo courtesy of Nguyen Quoc Toan.

Toan, following his long journey from Dhaka to Van Don International Airport in Quang Ninh Province in northern Vietnam and transfer to a quarantine facility in Thanh Hoa Province, almost passed out of dehydration.

The next morning medical workers came to take their samples for testing. On July 5 the results came, and 14 of them had Covid-19.

They were taken to the National Hospital for Tropical Diseases in Hanoi immediately. That night Toan felt his body ache, and he struggled to breathe. All he could eat was soup.

The next day doctors decided to put him in the emergency room as his oxygen level was too low.

“You must breath on your own to increase your oxygen level,” they told him.

Doctors and nurses were around him that night, but the machine indicated that his oxygen level went too low every 10 minutes.

The doctors told him to get down on his knees and lie face down to breathe, but the exhausted Toan could not remain in that position for long.

“You must try, you must breathe on your own.”

“I can only kneel, I have no energy,” he complained.

The next morning he felt better, but doctors told him his lungs were severely damaged by an acute complication caused by the virus.

“You have to try to eat no matter how tired or uncomfortable you are,” they told him explaining he had to keep his strength up.

Nguyen Quoc Toan recovered after spending several days in the emergency room at the National Hospital for Tropical Diseases in Hanoi. Photo courtesy of Nguyen Quoc Toan.

Toan, despite his constant headache and 39-degree Celsius fever and sometimes bloody sputum in the mouth, never skipped a meal.

After three nights without sleep, his condition got better. On July 15, after eight days of fighting with death, he could finally be taken off the ventilator and discharged from the emergency room.

After losing eight kilograms in 15 days since contracting the disease, he tested negative for the first time. He was so happy that he began to write poetry, something he had never done before.

He had been speaking with friends and colleagues around the world, and they had constantly encouraged him to fight the deadly virus.

He now wants to spend more time with his family, especially his two young daughters. He plans to meet and thank all the doctors and nurses who helped him get well when they can finally discard their protective clothing for good.

“The most valuable thing we have is not a mountain of cash or a massive house, it is our health and the safety of our family,” Toan wrote on his Facebook page, saying the Covid-19 infection and the hardship he suffered made him realize those things.

For Nam Bui, a Melbourne resident for over 10 years, the second lockdown “resembles a dream since everything got upturned.”

Since Wednesday, Melbourne, Australia’s second largest city, and capital of Victoria, will be locked down for six weeks as authorities try to prevent a second wave of coronavirus infection following a record rise in daily cases across the state.

Restaurants and cafes will only sell takeaway food, while gyms, beauty salons, and cinemas will be closed again. Nearly five million people will no longer be allowed to leave their homes unless it’s for grocery shopping, caregiving, exercise or work.

The whole state of Victoria was placed under strict lockdown in early March, seriously affecting those working in the hospitality and restaurant industry like Nam as the number of customers fell sharply, leading to a decrease in his income.

In mid-May, Nam felt happy and relieved as the Australian government relaxed lockdown measures, allowing restaurants to reopen and his job started returning to normal.

However, Victoria has been facing a second Covid-19 outbreak, prompting the government to reimpose a lockdown on metropolitan Melbourne and some parts of the state to contain the flare-up of cases.

Australia has so far reported over 9,300 infections and 106 deaths.

“Luckily, I work different shifts at more than one restaurant. My income is still fine even though I’m struggling to survive the pandemic,” Nam said.

Nhung Le Farrell, manager of a restaurant at Melbourne Airport, has not been able to return to work since April 23. Melbourne Airport was planning to resume flights on July 17 when the second lockdown order suddenly changed everything.

Victoria closed the border with neighboring New South Wales, isolating itself to curb the spread of the disease.

“I’m sad Melbourne is under lockdown again,” said Nhung, a resident since 2012. “95 percent of flights were cut, the airport was empty and restaurants closed their doors because there were no customers.”

“My income has reduced by 90 percent,” Nhung said, adding as a permanent resident, she was fortunate to receive government support for those affected by the Covid-19 pandemic. Only permanent residents or Australian citizens are eligible for the government support package.

Nhung takes advantage of this opportunity to spend most of the time at home with her 3-year-old son. Her husband, a high school teacher, still goes to work because high school seniors must continue their learning program.

For many, the Covid-19 pandemic has taken a heavy toll on livelihoods.

Lan Huong Tierney, owner of a wedding dress shop in Melbourne, also lives amid worry and stress.

“My shop was closed for several months, reopening just as the new lockdown was imposed,” Huong said.

“I certainly support the decision to place the city under lockdown since human life comes first. The unemployed, like me, are also supported by the government. However, I am still worried about the future as my income has been greatly reduced.”

Huong’s husband and children are now studying and working online from home. Prior to the renewed lockdown, her family restricted going out to avoid large crowds, with the Australian government yet to contain the pandemic.

“During the first lockdown, which lasted two months, people rushed to hoard necessities, but this time most only stock up for a week to limit going out,” she said.

Like Huong, Nam now hardly stores any goods as supermarkets remain open. “It is really sad that Melbourne has to reimpose the lockdown, but it was necessary to completely stamp out the coronavirus outbreak,” he maintained.

Nam blamed the recurrence of the second wave for slack anti-pandemic measures and poor public awareness.

Australia only encourages people to wear masks in public, though they scarce and very expensive, at up to $25-30 a box.”

I worried about my health amid the Covid-19 outbreak. Hopefully, thanks to strict police inspection, residents will comply with anti-pandemic measures, and the crisis would soon pass,” Nam added.

Huong also wishes the pandemic would end soon, though she accepts she will have to deal with its impacts until that time comes.

Cuc Gach Restaurant

Obama exits Cuc Gach Restaurant after an hour-long dinner. Photo acquired by VnExpress.

Cuc Gach, a countryside-inspired Vietnamese restaurant in Saigon, welcomed former U.S. President Barack Obama and his wife Michelle for dinner on Tuesday.

The two ate stir-fried Tonkin jasmine flowers with garlic, stewed pork, spring rolls, and Vietnamese sour soup – typical local delicacies.

Cuc Gach Restaurant. Photo acquired by VnExpress.

Cuc Gach boasts a décor that reflects the country’s tranquility while the furniture is characteristic of a traditional Vietnamese home.

Starting at VND85,000 ($3.7) a dish, the restaurant on Dang Tat Street in central District 1 has also been graced by A-list Hollywood stars like Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, and Backstreet Boys.

10 Ly Quoc Su Restaurant 

President Moon Jae-in, his wife Kim Jung-sook (left) and staff members enjoy beef pho breakfast, priced at VND150,000 ($6.5). Photo by VnExpress/Giang Huy.

South Korean President Moon Jae-in and his wife Kim Jung-sook started their last day in Hanoi last year with the hands-down iconic pho at 10 Ly Quoc Su Restaurant in Hoang Minh Giam Street, Cau Giay District. The two ordered two bowls of beef noodle soup they spiced up with a sprinkle of lime.

Pho has earned its place in the Oxford English Dictionary for its unmistakable taste and legacy.

Bill Clinton’s historic visit to Vietnam in 2000 also included a bowl of delicious pho at Pho Co Restaurant near the Temple of Literature in Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. In Saigon, the couple ate at a pho shop near Ben Thanh Market in District 1.

Banh Mi

Turnbull ate the banh mi sitting on a sidewalk stool. Photo by VnExpress/Dac Thanh.

When Vietnam hosted the APEC summit in Da Nang in November 2017, Australian Prime Minister Malcolm Turnbull grabbed himself a VND10,000 ($0.43) banh mi from a street vendor.

Banh mi, Vietnam’s iconic street food, is a baguette stuffed with anything from grilled pork, chicken, cold cuts, and cucumber slices, to cilantro, pickled carrots, liver pâté, and a swipe of mayonnaise and chili sauce.

Turnbull and chef Luke Nguyen, an Australian of Vietnamese origin, bought the sandwich while on a stroll, savoring the taste from the comfort of the sidewalk.

Vegetarian Tib Restaurant

Former U.S. President George W. Bush, Laura Bush and former Australian Prime Minister John Howard and partner Janette Howard dine at Tib during November 2006. Photo courtesy of Tib Restaurant.

In November 2006, former U.S. President George W. Bush and wife Laura Bush dined at Tib Restaurant with then-Australian Prime Minister John Howard and partner Janette Howard.

The visitors feasted on pincers, jackfruit salad, lotus seed soup in coconut, shrimp cakes, and lotus seed tea. The restaurant has since placed these dishes onto a separate menu named after Bush.

Tib, located on Hai Ba Trung Street in central District 1, mainly serves vegetarian dishes that originate from the former imperial capital of Hue. The ambience is cozy and suitable for receptions and gatherings.

Prices range from VND20,000 to 180,000 ($0.87- 7.8) per item. A Bush menu come in at about VND300,000 ($13) a head.

It is well known that street side eateries in major cities like Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Da Nang serve delicious food. However, for the adventurous traveller, similar, equally enjoyable discoveries await in smaller locations.

The quiet seaside town of Phan Rang, capital of Ninh Thuan Province in south central Vietnam, is a case in point. It offers a culinary experience unique to the location.

The town is about an hour from the Cam Ranh Airport and blessed with sunshine and photogenic natural scenery. The better known tourist hotspot in the area is Mui Ne, but this town has its own distinct charm, including its cuisine.

Mi Quang noodle soup.

Mi Quang

Quite a gem, the Mi Quang Thien stall serves a delicious version of this noodle dish and is easy to find. The first stall on Nguyen Van Troi Street, it is near the circle connecting Ngo Gia Tu and Tran Phu streets. Served piping hot with the fragrance of steaming pork broth, this dish is best had early in the morning.

Mi Quang is a dish that originates in Quang Nam Province in central Vietnam. It has become popular throughout the country and it seems every place has its own version. The one in Phan Rang is more like a pork noodle soup instead of the standard semi-dry style with a bit of a soup base. It is served with big pieces of pork on the bone, a quail egg, fish cake (cha ca), and crunchy peanuts on a generous portion of rice noodles.

As the day breaks, security guards, taxi drivers, students and office workers ride up to the place, exchanging small talk with the young lady chef as they settle down for breakfast. They are regular customers, obviously. We order a cup of coffee while waiting. And the dish proves well worth it.

Rice flour and turmeric crepes, banh xeo.

Banh xeo

Another spot popular among locals is Banh Xeo 22 Quang Trung, which carries its address in its name. Phan Rang’s version of banh xeo (rice flour and turmeric crepes) is smaller than the version found in Ho Chi Minh City, but has the same crispiness. The evening we visited, the cook was busy whipping up orders for a stream of customers. Deftly working the pan, she topped up the mixture with small prawns, squid, minced pork and bean sprouts.

The whole yummy crispy crepe is usually dipped into a choice of sauces. There’s fermented shrimp paste (mam nem) with a bold smell (some would say smelly!) and salty taste which certainly adds a buzz to the pancake.

Then there’s the sweet and crunchy mam dau phong (peanut sauce) as a less pungent alternative. Unlike the version in Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Rang’s banh xeo is not served with banh trang (rice paper) that you roll after placing a piece of the banh xeo and some herbs in it. Here, fresh young mango strips are offered as a sourish accompaniment to balance the sweet or salty sauces.

For spice lovers, there’s fresh pounded red chilli to add to the fish sauce; and if that isn’t enough, there are smoking hot small green chillies that will bring satisfying tears to your eyes.

Phan Rang is quite a center for chilli farming and almost everywhere you eat, there’s enough fresh chillis and freshly made pounded chilli dips for your spice cravings.

Mini egg pancakes, banh can.

Banh can

If pancakes are your thing, you will love banh can (mini egg pancakes). These are served with chicken eggs either beaten as a mixture into it (banh can trung) or quail eggs cracked into the pancake mix (banh can trung cut).

The pancakes can also be ordered with shrimp, minced pork or squid baked into it. The whole dish is smothered with spring onions before it’s served. Phan Rang’s version is widely available for breakfast or dinner. And just like local coffee shops, it seems like everyone has a favorite banh can spot in this town.

A banh can stall at 33 Quang Trung Street.

The one we visited one morning, Banh Can 33 Quang Trung at 33 Quang Trung Street, offered tasty portions with a brown fish sauce (nuoc ca), that even had small anchovies in it. Nuoc ca is a popular dip in this seaside town. There were also generous sides of sour young mango strips, sliced onions and cucumbers.

Banh hoi at 44, 21/8 Street.

Banh hoi

Banh hoi is another unique treat to savor in Phan Rang. We checked out this dish at Banh Hoi May Kim Ngan shop, a simple establishment at 44, 21/8 Street, over lunch time. Their banh hoi was sumptuous. Made with fine rice vermicelli in delicate bundles and topped with deep fried banh trang (rice paper) and spring onions, it was served with sesame banh trang, fish cake (cha ca), pig’s liver and deep fried pork belly, as well as a heap of vegetables.

You wrap all this up according to your preference and dip your wrap into either the mam nem (fermented shrimp paste sauce) or mam dau phong (peanut sauce).  It might seem just like simple, small portions without a lot of carbohydrates to stuff yourself with, but this wrap was filling.

Next time you feel adding a cuisine component to your vacation, Phan Rang deserves serious consideration.